Frequently Asked Questions
IF you plan to not use the system for some time, make sure you flush everything out and coat it all in some sort of “WD-40” or similar.
Thanks Steve.
How Should I Maintain My Carbs?
If your carbs are off the motor, always keep the fuel inlet plugged, It only takes the slightest obstruction to unseat a float valve and have them flood.
Before you connect the fuel line to the carbs, turn the pump on and run some fuel into a container, if there’s any debris in the lines it will end up in the container and not the carbs.
If you have between 4 and 6 PSI fuel pressure on your gauge, and you don’t normally have flooding issues, but your carbs are flooding, it will almost always be some sort of obstruction holding the float valve open.
When you first turn your pump on, flick it off and on for a few short burst’s until the fuel pressure is up, this can help free up stuck float valves, If you turn the pump on and your carbs flood, turn the pump off and fire the motor straight away, let it run until it starts to starve for fuel, then flick the pump off and on and again and see if that shifts the obstruction or frees the stuck valve, in some cases it will!
After you have washed your car make sure you fire it up to dry everything out and run some unleaded through it, if you can plumb it in just before the pump, with a tap that blanks off the methanol supply, that’s perfect. Start by draining the methanol from your bowls, then pump the petrol up and fire it. They don’t run really flash on petrol but it doesn’t have to run for long, then turn it off, drain the bowls again and put it away. If you do this properly every time you use there car, there should be no reason for you to have to drop the bowls off at all……almost.
NEVER tighten anything on your carbs more than a bit over finger tight and always keep the threads oiled and clean, I bet for every fastener that has dropped from the carbs because it was to loose, there’s been 500 drop out because they’ve been over tightened and stripped!
Always turn your fuel pump off first, BEFORE you turn the motor off, this’ll make sure that you don’t have any pressure left in the fuel lines. Having an almost vertical inlet port any residual pressure will see fuel bleed past the float valve, flood the carb and then run down the intake port and fill the cylinder with fuel….not good. Try to always turn the pump off BEFORE you leave the track and head back into the pits
Methanol can dry out the lube between the throttle shaft’s and the bush, it’s a good idea to spray some silicone spray around the bush both inside and out every now and again to help stop the butterflies sticking.
If you don’t maintain your air filter properly, your carbs wont run consistently, the grit will get in and stick the slides or at least make them not operate consistently. Apart from that it’s really hard on the valve seats.
It’s a really good idea to use some sort of additive to limit the corrosion damage caused by the methanol. We have been using a Lucas Fuel Treatment part #10576, that helps a lot with both gumming and corrosion both in the carb and the pump.
Which R6 motor is best?
2003 to 2005 (Gen2) and 2006 and later (Gen3) are all good motors. Up until now, we've lent toward the 2005 longer stroke engine as a preference in terms of performance especially when properly tuned and set up on carbs. However, now we lean more towards the 2006 and later motors especially on either of our injection, however they are also super competitive on our carbs and ECU.
The fact they've generally done less work before we start with them and have a far superior block, piston and ring package and transmission makes them now a smarter proposition. Tyler Owen won the last round of Speedweek 21 with a motor we can sell for $5500!
What About Oil?
We now recommend 10/40 Penrite MC4ST Part # MC410W40004, its really important to warm the oil properly. That means fire the motor, make sure you have oil pressure then wind the idle up to around 3000 and let it warm up, you're pretty safe when the oil filter is uncomfortably hot to hold, like a hot cup of coffee!
How Hard Do I Rev It?
The only answer to that is "how long do you want it to last?" Firstly it's reasonably hard to accurately measure your RPM, and without knowing how long the motor spends at these RPM's, you really only use an ACCURATE tach to confirm your gut feeling, it needs some teeth or it dosent! On a short track, when you are coming off the bottom off the turn, almost without exception the more RPM you have across the middle of the corner the better you'll come off the turn all else being equal. On a big round track like Warrnambool or Kwinnana it's much more common to see people run overall slower because they over rev the motor and kill it from a car speed point of view. If your car is pretty right, your driving pretty right and your motor will pull it, most times (there are always exceptions) you'll build more speed with a taller gear!
Why'd It Stop?
In almost every case, if the motor was assembled properly, is tuned properly (if it doesn't run right it wont last as long) and has been running fine for at least a night or so, then most times if the motor suddenly fails, it has been over revved or the oil was too cold for the sustained RPM's the motor was turning. Having said that it's really hard with exception to a broken rod bolt to categorically state what failed first when something lets go at 16000+ RPM. To use the 2005 R6 as an example, it's easy to have a high of maybe only 15600rpm and still turn a bearing, If that same motor has lows in the high 13800rpm to 14000rpm range on a Warrnambool style track, to me its only a matter of time before it fails. The flip side to that is, I have customers that have consistent highs of 15900rpm and their motor runs forever? Just as important is the lows NOT the highs, and the amount of time the motor spends at what RPM.
Jettco Loom Notes
On 1999 to 2002 model carbed motors the Dark Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco loom.
On 2003 to current fuel injected models the Light Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco loom.
The Orange wire left loose from the loom is for a tach signal if you run a Mychron, if it’s not used it should be taped back against the loom.
The Yellow wire with the Black trace is for a tach signal if you use the Oval Track Pro style tach.
If you use an OTP tach it will be necessary to plug the TPS in order to record your lows.
There is no measurable lose in performance from just above idle at 100% throttle, either with the TPS, or without, at part throttle below about 5000 a ilttle yes!
We recommend to plug the 12 volt supply from your ignition switch to the Red wire on the CDI in order to make it easier to swap CDI’s and looms if needed in the future.
The Black (or 2 Blue) ground wires with the 6.00mm eyelet are normally connected to one of the 2 X 6.00mm cap heads on the cam chain side of the cylinder head.
Always ground the block directly to the battery!
I use the same basic wiring and Narva white plastic connector plugs on all my motors and looms, if you don’t alter the plugs, it’s very easy to borrow either another loom / CDI or even motor. The plugs are not exactley OEM spec! however they're fine for our application and readily available if they get damaged.
IF you plan to not use the system for some time, make sure you flush everything out and coat it all in some sort of “WD-40” or similar.
Thanks Steve.
How Should I Maintain My Carbs?
If your carbs are off the motor, always keep the fuel inlet plugged, It only takes the slightest obstruction to unseat a float valve and have them flood.
Before you connect the fuel line to the carbs, turn the pump on and run some fuel into a container, if there’s any debris in the lines it will end up in the container and not the carbs.
If you have between 4 and 6 PSI fuel pressure on your gauge, and you don’t normally have flooding issues, but your carbs are flooding, it will almost always be some sort of obstruction holding the float valve open.
When you first turn your pump on, flick it off and on for a few short burst’s until the fuel pressure is up, this can help free up stuck float valves, If you turn the pump on and your carbs flood, turn the pump off and fire the motor straight away, let it run until it starts to starve for fuel, then flick the pump off and on and again and see if that shifts the obstruction or frees the stuck valve, in some cases it will!
After you have washed your car make sure you fire it up to dry everything out and run some unleaded through it, if you can plumb it in just before the pump, with a tap that blanks off the methanol supply, that’s perfect. Start by draining the methanol from your bowls, then pump the petrol up and fire it. They don’t run really flash on petrol but it doesn’t have to run for long, then turn it off, drain the bowls again and put it away. If you do this properly every time you use there car, there should be no reason for you to have to drop the bowls off at all……almost.
NEVER tighten anything on your carbs more than a bit over finger tight and always keep the threads oiled and clean, I bet for every fastener that has dropped from the carbs because it was to loose, there’s been 500 drop out because they’ve been over tightened and stripped!
Always turn your fuel pump off first, BEFORE you turn the motor off, this’ll make sure that you don’t have any pressure left in the fuel lines. Having an almost vertical inlet port any residual pressure will see fuel bleed past the float valve, flood the carb and then run down the intake port and fill the cylinder with fuel….not good. Try to always turn the pump off BEFORE you leave the track and head back into the pits
Methanol can dry out the lube between the throttle shaft’s and the bush, it’s a good idea to spray some silicone spray around the bush both inside and out every now and again to help stop the butterflies sticking.
If you don’t maintain your air filter properly, your carbs wont run consistently, the grit will get in and stick the slides or at least make them not operate consistently. Apart from that it’s really hard on the valve seats.
It’s a really good idea to use some sort of additive to limit the corrosion damage caused by the methanol. We have been using a Lucas Fuel Treatment part #10576, that helps a lot with both gumming and corrosion both in the carb and the pump.
Which R6 motor is best?
2003 to 2005 (Gen2) and 2006 and later (Gen3) are all good motors. Up until now, we've lent toward the 2005 longer stroke engine as a preference in terms of performance especially when properly tuned and set up on carbs. However, now we lean more towards the 2006 and later motors especially on either of our injection, however they are also super competitive on our carbs and ECU.
The fact they've generally done less work before we start with them and have a far superior block, piston and ring package and transmission makes them now a smarter proposition. Tyler Owen won the last round of Speedweek 21 with a motor we can sell for $5500!
What About Oil?
We now recommend 10/40 Penrite MC4ST Part # MC410W40004, its really important to warm the oil properly. That means fire the motor, make sure you have oil pressure then wind the idle up to around 3000 and let it warm up, you're pretty safe when the oil filter is uncomfortably hot to hold, like a hot cup of coffee!
How Hard Do I Rev It?
The only answer to that is "how long do you want it to last?" Firstly it's reasonably hard to accurately measure your RPM, and without knowing how long the motor spends at these RPM's, you really only use an ACCURATE tach to confirm your gut feeling, it needs some teeth or it dosent! On a short track, when you are coming off the bottom off the turn, almost without exception the more RPM you have across the middle of the corner the better you'll come off the turn all else being equal. On a big round track like Warrnambool or Kwinnana it's much more common to see people run overall slower because they over rev the motor and kill it from a car speed point of view. If your car is pretty right, your driving pretty right and your motor will pull it, most times (there are always exceptions) you'll build more speed with a taller gear!
Why'd It Stop?
In almost every case, if the motor was assembled properly, is tuned properly (if it doesn't run right it wont last as long) and has been running fine for at least a night or so, then most times if the motor suddenly fails, it has been over revved or the oil was too cold for the sustained RPM's the motor was turning. Having said that it's really hard with exception to a broken rod bolt to categorically state what failed first when something lets go at 16000+ RPM. To use the 2005 R6 as an example, it's easy to have a high of maybe only 15600rpm and still turn a bearing, If that same motor has lows in the high 13800rpm to 14000rpm range on a Warrnambool style track, to me its only a matter of time before it fails. The flip side to that is, I have customers that have consistent highs of 15900rpm and their motor runs forever? Just as important is the lows NOT the highs, and the amount of time the motor spends at what RPM.
Jettco Loom Notes
On 1999 to 2002 model carbed motors the Dark Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco loom.
On 2003 to current fuel injected models the Light Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco loom.
The Orange wire left loose from the loom is for a tach signal if you run a Mychron, if it’s not used it should be taped back against the loom.
The Yellow wire with the Black trace is for a tach signal if you use the Oval Track Pro style tach.
If you use an OTP tach it will be necessary to plug the TPS in order to record your lows.
There is no measurable lose in performance from just above idle at 100% throttle, either with the TPS, or without, at part throttle below about 5000 a ilttle yes!
We recommend to plug the 12 volt supply from your ignition switch to the Red wire on the CDI in order to make it easier to swap CDI’s and looms if needed in the future.
The Black (or 2 Blue) ground wires with the 6.00mm eyelet are normally connected to one of the 2 X 6.00mm cap heads on the cam chain side of the cylinder head.
Always ground the block directly to the battery!
I use the same basic wiring and Narva white plastic connector plugs on all my motors and looms, if you don’t alter the plugs, it’s very easy to borrow either another loom / CDI or even motor. The plugs are not exactley OEM spec! however they're fine for our application and readily available if they get damaged.