600CC KINSLER MFI TIPS
Secondary Valve - 18 to 20psi with around a 050" to 060" pill
Main Pill - 088" to 090"
Hi-Speed - 115psi with around a 040" to 050" pill
- If you’re starting the motor after it has sat for a few days, make sure around the air filter is clean. Remove the air filter and crank the motor with the fuel taps and throttle open BUT with the ignition OFF. Look down into the injection while you’re doing it (with the ignition OFF) and once you see fuel running from the nozzles, close the throttle and stop cranking. Fit the air filter, turn the ignition on and start the motor with no throttle, it will fire straight up.
- If you have to crank the motor for ages and the motor still won’t start, either the poppet in the main pill holder or the secondary is stuck open. If the poppet pressure in the main pill is way to low (below 3psi) then just off closed throttle performance can be an issue also.
- At all times turn the fuel tap OFF to shut down the motor THEN the ignition.
- When the motor is hot, you might need anywhere up to 50% throttle to start, sometimes it can help to crank the motor with the ignition on, then turn the tap on once it’s cranking, this all depends on the tune up though, some are a little rich and can "flood" easily, others are a little lean and it helps to open the throttle with the tap just cracked.
- If the motor has good water temperature and runs fine everywhere but right off idle when it’s hot or it has a little stumble or is super hard to start, don’t be afraid to LEAN the barrel valve 1 flat or so. That means turn the adjustment link to make the link longer. Another solution can be to go 020” or even 040” larger in the secondary pill if it stumbles at really low throttle angles and low to mid RPM, but is OK at larger throttle angles.
- If you stand on the throttle from low RPM and nothing happens, it's most likely way too lean. In that case, richen your barrel valve by shortening the link, also check the poppet in both the secondary and main pill holder. If "dead spot" is up around the 5000 to 7000 range go smaller in the secondary jet and higher in the spring pressure on the poppet.
- It’s a good idea to run some fuel lubricant like Lucas Ethanol fuel treatment #10576. It just helps with keeping everything clean and limits the corrosion.
- Be really careful when fitting the fuel pump, it’s super important to make sure you never bottom the pump out against the 3/8” drive socket, bottom the pump in the drive and then pull it back around 1 to 1.5mm.
- We now recommend that you run NO filter at all between the pump and tank, just be really careful when filling the tank and use a funnel with a filter fitted. Run everything through the -6 or with the later systems -8 Kinsler Monster Mesh filter and then branch off to your main, barrel valve and hi-speed.
- NEVER go richer on the main without adding some pressure to the hi-speed. You WILL lean the top end off and it won’t pull (if everything else is as it should be).
- If you’re ever in doubt about which way to go with the hi-speed ADD some pressure. If we did the original dyno and tune up here, you have to go a long way too rich before removing fuel up high will make it run better. Going to a larger hi-speed jet will sometimes extend your over rev but at the expense of added coolant temperture though.
- If you plan to not use the system for some time, make sure you flush everything out and coat it ll in some sort of WD40 or similar.
- If you have a purchased a used system and have no tune up sheet from us start around here with your tune up. If it's not pretty close at this setting you most likely have a plumbing or fuel pump issue.
Secondary Valve - 18 to 20psi with around a 050" to 060" pill
Main Pill - 088" to 090"
Hi-Speed - 115psi with around a 040" to 050" pill