FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
MOTOR
Q. Which R6 motor is best?
A. The earlier 2003 - 2005 R6S and current 2006 - 2019 R6R are both amazing little motors, however we prefer the 2006 - 2020 R6R type motors. They provide way better value for money along with almost unbreakable reliability. Without doubt they have a far superior bottom end and there's still a reasonable supply of good low miles motors to build from. Dollar for dollar a properly modified stock bottom end (stock rods and pistons) R6R type motor will make comparable torque at the wheels to an equivalent R6S and run happily into the 16500 - 16700 range. In terms of durability most of our customers are putting around 25 to 35 nights on them, with some seeing up to 40 and 50 nights with no issue, and in one case 70 nights without a freshen! Although we don't do a lot of Suzuki's it's the same with them, the later motors are really reliable with the right oil and pan. When comparing a stock Suzuki 599cc to a stock Yamaha R6R 599cc, the Suzuki is a little better below 11,000 and the Yamaha's a little better above 12,000, there's not a whole lot in it though. Those nights we're talking about are on tracks where the average gear for an R6R in 3rd would be a 14/47-50 and as large as a 15/47, really big tracks compared to most of the USA tracks.
Q. What about oil?
A. We recommend 10/40 Penrite part #MC410W40004. It's super SUPER important to warm the oil properly - that means fire the motor, make sure you have oil pressure then wind the idle up to around 3000 - 3500 and let it warm up. Ideally the oil filter should be uncomfortably hot to hold, like a hot cup of coffee, apart from risking cavitation at the pump because it can't lift enough oil through the pick up screen, it's only gravity that gets the oil back down into the pan once it's been splashed and pumped around, cold viscous oil in a cold engine takes a long time to make it's way back into the the pan, when that happens it's very easy to leave the pick up uncovered if you're already a little low on oil or you have a not so good pan and pick up.
Q. How hard can I rev it?
A. There's really only two answers to that - "how long do you want it to last?" and "how much do you want to win?"
On a short track, when you're coming off the bottom of the turn, almost without exception the more RPM you have across the middle of the corner the better you'll come off the turn all else being equal. If you're on our new GEN2EFI, the higher your average RPM's are the higher you average HP will be for the lap. On top of that, the gear you need for more RPM's multiplies the torque at the wheels by roughly 2% with every tooth you add. However you do get a point where more gear just kills acceleration and traction, the tyres have to have some amount of slip to generate traction, and the motor has to have some where to rev too, if it gets on the straight well past peak power RPM it won't look like it's in a real hurry to make to other end.
If you're on carbs it's still pretty easy to rev the motor too hard and kill "wind up". Even the best carb R6R motors have had enough by 15800 - 16000, and the stock Suzuki's are normally done closer to15500. If you're on a pretty big round track and your average RPM is high, then anything over 16000 on carbs is just wearing it out. If you're on a short track with a slow corner then as much RPM as you're game will still help no matter what the motor or induction.
Q. Why did it go up in smoke?
A. In almost every case, if the motor was or has :
* been assembled properly
* has a decent oil pan and pick up that works
* runs in the rev range it was set up to
* is tuned properly (if it doesn't run right it wont last as long)
* has been running fine for at least a night or so
* and hasn't been repeatedly crashed or thrown down the track upside down...
Then most times if the motor suddenly fails, it has been over revved or the oil was too cold or too hot, or just not good enough for the sustained RPM's the motor was turning. As far as the components go, there's a line in the sand and at some point everything fails, age, condition, load and RPM all play a roll in any failure.
Jettco 5EB/5MT Loom Notes
On 1999 to 2002 model carbed motors the Dark Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco 5MT/5EB loom.
On 2003 to current fuel injected models the Light Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco 5EB/5MT loom.
The Yellow wire with the Black trace on our 5EB/5MT loom is for a tach signal if you use the Oval Track Pro style tach.
If you use an OTP tach it will be necessary to plug the TPS in order to record your lows.
The Orange wire is your tach connection for the Mychron.
Jettco Programmable ECU Loom Notes
The orange wire left loose from the loom on our adjustable ECU is for a tach signal if you run a Mychron, if it’s not used it should be taped back against the loom and NOT allowed to go to ground. The Red wire has 12V from the ignition switch and the Yellow/Green is the tach wire for Daytonas and similar.
If you run a 2006 R6R or later, our ECU and loom runs the stock 2CO rotor.
There is no measurable loss in performance from just above idle at 100% throttle, either with the TPS, or without, at very low throttle angles below about 5000 a tiny bit yes!
We recommend to plug the 12 volt supply from your ignition switch to the Red wire on the CDI in order to make it easier to swap CDI’s and looms if needed in the future.
The Black (or 2 Blue) ground wires with the 6.00mm eyelet are normally connected to one of the 2 X 6.00mm cap heads on the cam chain side of the cylinder head.
Always ground the block directly to the battery!
I use the same basic wiring and Narva white plastic connector plugs on all my motors and looms, if you don’t alter the plugs, it’s very easy to borrow either another loom/CDI or even motor. The plugs are not exactly OEM spec however they're fine for our application and readily available if they get damaged.
MOTOR
Q. Which R6 motor is best?
A. The earlier 2003 - 2005 R6S and current 2006 - 2019 R6R are both amazing little motors, however we prefer the 2006 - 2020 R6R type motors. They provide way better value for money along with almost unbreakable reliability. Without doubt they have a far superior bottom end and there's still a reasonable supply of good low miles motors to build from. Dollar for dollar a properly modified stock bottom end (stock rods and pistons) R6R type motor will make comparable torque at the wheels to an equivalent R6S and run happily into the 16500 - 16700 range. In terms of durability most of our customers are putting around 25 to 35 nights on them, with some seeing up to 40 and 50 nights with no issue, and in one case 70 nights without a freshen! Although we don't do a lot of Suzuki's it's the same with them, the later motors are really reliable with the right oil and pan. When comparing a stock Suzuki 599cc to a stock Yamaha R6R 599cc, the Suzuki is a little better below 11,000 and the Yamaha's a little better above 12,000, there's not a whole lot in it though. Those nights we're talking about are on tracks where the average gear for an R6R in 3rd would be a 14/47-50 and as large as a 15/47, really big tracks compared to most of the USA tracks.
Q. What about oil?
A. We recommend 10/40 Penrite part #MC410W40004. It's super SUPER important to warm the oil properly - that means fire the motor, make sure you have oil pressure then wind the idle up to around 3000 - 3500 and let it warm up. Ideally the oil filter should be uncomfortably hot to hold, like a hot cup of coffee, apart from risking cavitation at the pump because it can't lift enough oil through the pick up screen, it's only gravity that gets the oil back down into the pan once it's been splashed and pumped around, cold viscous oil in a cold engine takes a long time to make it's way back into the the pan, when that happens it's very easy to leave the pick up uncovered if you're already a little low on oil or you have a not so good pan and pick up.
Q. How hard can I rev it?
A. There's really only two answers to that - "how long do you want it to last?" and "how much do you want to win?"
On a short track, when you're coming off the bottom of the turn, almost without exception the more RPM you have across the middle of the corner the better you'll come off the turn all else being equal. If you're on our new GEN2EFI, the higher your average RPM's are the higher you average HP will be for the lap. On top of that, the gear you need for more RPM's multiplies the torque at the wheels by roughly 2% with every tooth you add. However you do get a point where more gear just kills acceleration and traction, the tyres have to have some amount of slip to generate traction, and the motor has to have some where to rev too, if it gets on the straight well past peak power RPM it won't look like it's in a real hurry to make to other end.
If you're on carbs it's still pretty easy to rev the motor too hard and kill "wind up". Even the best carb R6R motors have had enough by 15800 - 16000, and the stock Suzuki's are normally done closer to15500. If you're on a pretty big round track and your average RPM is high, then anything over 16000 on carbs is just wearing it out. If you're on a short track with a slow corner then as much RPM as you're game will still help no matter what the motor or induction.
Q. Why did it go up in smoke?
A. In almost every case, if the motor was or has :
* been assembled properly
* has a decent oil pan and pick up that works
* runs in the rev range it was set up to
* is tuned properly (if it doesn't run right it wont last as long)
* has been running fine for at least a night or so
* and hasn't been repeatedly crashed or thrown down the track upside down...
Then most times if the motor suddenly fails, it has been over revved or the oil was too cold or too hot, or just not good enough for the sustained RPM's the motor was turning. As far as the components go, there's a line in the sand and at some point everything fails, age, condition, load and RPM all play a roll in any failure.
Jettco 5EB/5MT Loom Notes
On 1999 to 2002 model carbed motors the Dark Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco 5MT/5EB loom.
On 2003 to current fuel injected models the Light Grey wire from the crank sensor connects to the White wire on the Jettco 5EB/5MT loom.
The Yellow wire with the Black trace on our 5EB/5MT loom is for a tach signal if you use the Oval Track Pro style tach.
If you use an OTP tach it will be necessary to plug the TPS in order to record your lows.
The Orange wire is your tach connection for the Mychron.
Jettco Programmable ECU Loom Notes
The orange wire left loose from the loom on our adjustable ECU is for a tach signal if you run a Mychron, if it’s not used it should be taped back against the loom and NOT allowed to go to ground. The Red wire has 12V from the ignition switch and the Yellow/Green is the tach wire for Daytonas and similar.
If you run a 2006 R6R or later, our ECU and loom runs the stock 2CO rotor.
There is no measurable loss in performance from just above idle at 100% throttle, either with the TPS, or without, at very low throttle angles below about 5000 a tiny bit yes!
We recommend to plug the 12 volt supply from your ignition switch to the Red wire on the CDI in order to make it easier to swap CDI’s and looms if needed in the future.
The Black (or 2 Blue) ground wires with the 6.00mm eyelet are normally connected to one of the 2 X 6.00mm cap heads on the cam chain side of the cylinder head.
Always ground the block directly to the battery!
I use the same basic wiring and Narva white plastic connector plugs on all my motors and looms, if you don’t alter the plugs, it’s very easy to borrow either another loom/CDI or even motor. The plugs are not exactly OEM spec however they're fine for our application and readily available if they get damaged.